When I tell chef friends of mine that a grist mill stands just a stone’s throw from my home and kitchen, they are incredulous. The miller, in the traditional miller’s garb of the nineteenth century, grinds, among other things, a fantastic rye flour. We feature it in this porridge, served with smashed kohlrabi that has been glazed in its own cooking juices and with pickled mustard seeds.
Ingredients
SMOKED KOHLRABI GLAZE
- 500 grams | 4 ⅔ cups peeled and diced kohlrabi, with leaves reserved
- 3 kilograms | about 3 quarts water
- kuzu root starch
- kosher salt
- sherry vinegar
BRAISED KOHLRABI
- 150 grams | 5.3 ounces peeled
- reserved
- kosher salt
PICKLED MUSTARD SEEDS
- 62 grams | ⅓ cup yellow mustard seeds
- 125 grams | ½ cup white wine vinegar
- 62 grams | ⅓ cup water
- kosher salt
How to Make It
- FOR THE SMOKED KOHLRABI GLAZE: Cold smoke the kohlrabi pieces for 1 hour. Just before they are ready, pour the water into a saucepan and begin to heat slowly. Transfer the kohlrabi pieces to the saucepan, cover, and bring the water to a simmer. Turn down the heat to 140°F (60°C) and hold for 1 ½ hours. Strain the liquid through a very fine cloth filter into a bowl, discarding the kohlrabi, and let cool slightly. Weigh the liquid and calculate 5 percent of the weight. Weigh the calculated amount in kuzu root starch and whisk it into the liquid. Place over high heat and bring to a boil while stirring constantly. Boil for 3 minutes, until the glaze evenly coats the back of a spoon. Strain through a chinois into a clean saucepan, then season with salt and vinegar, cover, and keep in a warm place.
- FOR THE BRAISED KOHLRABI: Combine the mustard seeds, vinegar, and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to a simmer and cook for about 1 hour, until the seeds have absorbed all of the liquid. Season to taste with kosher salt and transfer to a metal container. Let cool in the refrigerator.
- FOR THE PICKLED MUSTARD SEEDS: Combine the mustard seeds, vinegar, and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to a simmer and cook for about 1 hour, until the seeds have absorbed all of the liquid. Season to taste with kosher salt and transfer to a metal container. Let cool in the refrigerator.
- FOR THE BRAISED KOHLRABI LEAVES: Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Rinse the reserved kohlrabi leaves in cold water and run through a salad spinner to remove the excess liquid. Heat the extra virgin oil in a large rondeau just until it begins to smoke. Add the leaves and water, cover immediately, and cook for 15 seconds. Uncover and stir the leaves to wilt them evenly. Transfer the leaves to the prepared sheet pan and let cool completely in the refrigerator. Very finely mince the leaves, season with kosher salt, and reserve in the refrigerator.
- FOR THE PICKLED KOHLRABI: Put the kohlrabi in a heatproof container. Combine the vinegar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and pour over the kohlrabi. Hold at about 190°F (88°C) for 10 minutes. Season with kosher salt and store in the refrigerator.
- FOR THE PUMPERNICKEL RYE PORRIDGE: Combine the rye flour and water in a shallow saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer while whisking constantly. As the mixture begins to thicken, turn down the heat to low and continue to whisk the porridge. When the porridge has thickened but is still pourable (10 to 12 minutes), incorporate the butter and season with kosher salt, then remove from the heat. As it sits it will continue to thicken; add a little water as needed to maintain the correct consistency.
