I don’t cook turnips very often, and when I do I wonder why that is the case. They have a delicate sweetness when you first bite into them, with just a hint of mustard at the end; a really interesting root to serve at times when carrots or parsnips aren’t quite right. The key is to find and use relatively small turnips never bigger than a tennis ball – as the larger they grow, the more bitter they become.
To my mind, turnips are best boiled or steamed, rather than roasted or braised; in this instance, butter or oil seems better as a garnish, not as a cooking medium. A snowstorm of fresh horseradish enhances the natural spice.
These work best among a group of vegetables rather than as a main carbohydrate, as they can become monotonous. They’re also best eaten when still steaming hot, probably next to some pan-roasted salmon or trout or a hefty beef dish.
Ingredients
- 500 g small-medium white turnips
- 40 g butter
- 20 g fresh horseradish
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Peel and cut the turnips into wedges, quarters or sixths, depending on size. (If you find baby turnips, leave them whole and with the skin on.) Put the turnips in a saucepan that comfortably holds them and fill with cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 8–10 minutes until a fork can be pushed through with relative ease. Take care not to overcook them, as they’ll turn watery and flavourless. Drain and allow to steam dry for a few minutes.
- Use the now-empty turnip pan to melt the butter over a medium heat. Tip the turnips back into the pan and turn them in the butter so that all sides are well glossed. Heat through for 1–2 minutes. I prefer them to stay pale, rather than catch and brown. Season very generously with black pepper and a pinch or two of salt, then transfer to a serving bowl. Grate a blanket of horseradish over the top and serve immediately.
